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Fair play to the gobshite he was the first to congratulate us. With the wasabi they are delicious tentacles eyes and all. He tells me it’s only allowed on weekends and holidays. The bikes go inside. Here we go I’m thinking, we’ve done something wrong and received a notice from some irate member of the public or the cops or someone who doesn’t like rugby! When we booked it, like Sunchang there wasn’t a great deal of options. The concrete path under the warming sun is hard going but made spectacularly more interesting for a few miles when the verges are decorated with multicoloured little windmills. We make our way down until we come across a stopping area with a toilet. Dinner armed cauldron hot and was delicious, well it was for me, too spicy for Chewy. The “little port” we saw through the morning mist illuminated by the lighthouse last week is a massive industrial powerhouse, with container ships, ferries, waste barges filling up with scrap metal, boats full of sand being unloaded and so much more. We pack after our usual yoghurt breakfast and depart making our way to the bus station. Back at the apartment we enjoy simply doing nothing, so much so I nod off during a movie on tv. The cold beer is slipping down very easily. We have to download an app and then get confirmation but as the app doesn’t accept Yahoo we need to create new email addresses through GMail. The first mouthful of great anticipation the tastebuds immediately informing me that something is wrong. We, with the drivers assistance get the bikes out and make our way across the road to the start of the path. A quick chat and we are heading back down but at nowhere near the speed I expected with the power turned off. We pass massive green nets which are large enough to cover a gasometer at full extension. The lakeside views at our stop for the night is missed due to the extra time it’s taken to get here but even in the darkness it appears to be impressive. Kikugawa our destination remains some miles away and all we have ridden through today has been urban sprawl. Then we meet the jobsworth who won’t let us on to the platform to bag up. Soon at the hotel. Chewys Aladdin pants that’s the only way I can describe them have come adrift at a seam, providing additional ventilation and no real problem for a seamstress of her skill and ability once she has a needle and thread. Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Cartier and our free Fresh Style bag from the day the store opened. Either the most wonderful waters edge prime real estate properties ( think blue waters speed boats and wooden houses, no beaches however) or prosperity precariously balancing on the edge of a full scale disaster area just waiting to happen. Last time was for the massive climb but this is the closest we can get to the start of the Ocheon trail. Again no merch and no programmes. I’m starting to have a love affair with this green paste. Totally stunning as it moves into the station. This is the Crystal River trail. Today we are taking a different route, up along the norther coast line. At four thirty we take the bikes downstairs and set off in search. Both the men’s and women’s huge baths are full tonight and there’s no one in them. All in all we lose around a half an hour, some flesh from my knuckles and a lot of relaxation. Tickets? You may recall we drove to a spot we had been to before but failed to make it and found ourselves in the morning parked around the corner from where we had been searching for. We are on the fifth floor and the bikes are coming with us. CONNEXITY "coyote_sc" Hudson Valley Lighting. Piece of cake I’m on the platform easily. Pitching into the waves with the sea above us on one side, it didn’t concern me at all as the rocking motion was making me nod off. We continue to meet lovely people. Truth is they were reluctant to let us have it as previous users had lost rear windscreens reversing into bushes and lampposts . She’s very happy, so much so she goes to a vending machine and supplies us with two cold bottles of green tea. Introduced we offer to show them the way into the Fan Zone before heading over for the match. He is here to see his mum, this is his home town although he now lives in Seoul. There is a little old hat wearing lady eating a rice ball. Trouble is the certification centre his app is referring to was the one we passed 6 k ago. There is even a lady Sandy from LA who has flown in to see both gigs in Tokyo! Toyota city is our next destination and through the noticeboard on the Japan Campers ipads we have been given, a site in a SuigenPark car park has been recommended. Rob concedes we had a chance and played well. It’s the first outing for the new trousers, snazzy or what? We are both soaked through from sweat and the earlier rain. Tasted grand too although once again our beer selections have proved to be not as good as our wine selection. The older man with a head full of dark hair is rather tall which makes Lena nervous initially. If only we could see them. But Chewy going nuclear is wasted as he can’t understand anything other than a woman is going crazy as the lights can’t be turned off. She tells me she wants to return the favour but having one gamy leg I don’t think it would be fair and so carry on with releasing the IT band on the other thigh. She develops Herculean strength to pull the bike up then me. Oh I’m so sorry. You can’t always see them either as vegetation grows over the top onto the road surface. To our right are five or six Japanese guys all in Wales shirts, then to our left are a right pair of Wallies, or Waldos as the books later changed to. Today tax on everything has been increased, apart from fuel, that’s been going up since there was trouble in Saudi. Time for a walk along the river bank where a swan is busy eating some grass. Today we are on the east coast. It appears closed but the chap strimming the verges and collecting any rubbish comes to our aid and opens up. The nearest one is all stairs but the lift we found is very well guarded as it’s next to the Japanese consulate, and is covered by police , three busses full in fact. These are usually marked on approach, such as 7% for 100m. The car park is fairly full, the vehicles decanting many elderly people as well as teenagers. It was a hellish day but we have gotten through it. We can make our way to Japan with a smug feeling of hard earn success. The mountains on our right are full of colour, untouched in over sixty years, the pale yellow sands abutting the rolling waves of the ocean have not seen a sunbather, beachball or parasol in many a moon. A six bowl treat of cooked silver shreds of fish, absolutely delicious, the obligatory chunks of white radish, a bowl of cucumber and shredded carrot, hot sauce and soup as well as the bipbap main star of the show. Clothes are taken by Chewy to the laundrette for a wash this could be our last chance in a while so better make the most of it. The South has been fantastic to us and that continues in the guise of James. He’s on a lovely stealth black bike and in full kit. Body soap followed by shampoo and finally conditioner are used and hosed off while a plastic basin is filled with either hot or cold water and then deposited over the head or body. It was worth taking the Korean ibuprofen and Japanese paracetamol as I feel no pain whatsoever in my knees now. Very limited greenery, houses so densely packed together neighbours can close each other’s bamboo curtains and when the houses stop, industry commences. It’s a huge climb to start with and after a while we are back in the fields with the fans I can only think, although I’ve never seen or been to one, it’s a tea plantation. Sales are final on personalized and custom items (if you choose to add…, Funny Pug Mug, Sex Pugs and Rock n Roll, Hand Sublimated, Dog Lover, Family Pet, 11 oz Coffee Cup, Standard Sized Diner Cup, Mini Mastiffic This 11 oz ceramic Pug mug is sublimated by me in my shop with my own art. Chewy her outer thighs released beautifully along the IT band springs to the door as it’s delivered, while I peel myself off the sheets. It’s all stop start in the city and slow hot miserable progress until at a junction Chewy crosses the traffic and puts us at the start of the route. It’s very good too with a large selection of food to be tried and enjoyed. Chewy takes hers first, but as there two lifts I’m not far behind her. The performance isn’t good but the resolve remains. Two miles in a sign says it’s another 4K BASTARDS!!!!!! In fact the noodles Sharan tells me are made from the sweet potatoes too. So with travelling tales told and an excellent breakfast provided and scoffed thanks to Cath we made tracks to a nearby onsen where for an hour we relaxed in the hot waters and even enjoyed the rain on the rooftop pools. After delivering the bikes we return to the quayside, make our way up the metal stairs to the entrance of the shop where we are welcomed on board and take the escalator to reception. When Sharon has finished in the kitchen we polish off more beer, walnuts and crisps before realising its way past midnight. To the rear of the train we make our way as we have learnt previously. We call into a convenience store for something to drink and a bag of crisps puddles left on the floor. An orange bus pulls in. Overall it’s not too bad, the graze on the hip is an annoyance. In the morning James has been out with Narae and returned with bacon and egg muffins. Over sixty miles and we aren’t shattered, so time to make our way to tonight’s hotel. He arrives at our door several minute later just as Chewy goes to Defcon two. She nails it. But fair play James as we discover his name to be is waiting for us. Around forty miles and the route is finished and we should be at the hotel. It’ll make the 9 am checkout easy. It’s a struggle to be fair as Chewy can’t help as there’s nowhere to lean her bike up against, and the drivers no help either. Left foot into the pedal, push off and stand up to get the momentum to propel me forward. The next morning we head towards Oita and the laundry, every piece of clothing bar what we are standing up in goes in as well as the towels and pillowcases. Rob and Cathy’s van is parked up at the Mitchie when we arrive but we decide not to disturb them and just settle down for the night relieved to have made it without having an accident or getting a nose bleed from the altitude. Back in the car park the cars are emptying of climbers fully equipped for the ice field apart from an old couple who walk up the steps and then turn back. Again no fear of a tsunami (?) There is a number to call or the cops get involved. Up and down it comes, half full the leavers are hampered not by me but by the elbowing oldies trying to get in. When we were drinking in the corner bar in Hiroshima I was speaking to an Australian chap. I’m no boxer. As with the monuments wherever we have been, if you can’t understand the language, your lost. What a fun and functional gift for the dog lover! At the car park we are invited in for tea and a meal with Rob and Cath. Shaun and Huw have been sat in front and to the left of us. Although a local has stopped for the night and kept his engine running for the air con I guess, it’s not too noisy at all and we both sleep well the crashing waves soothing us into the land of nod. We are back in business and make our way to the terminal. Only one night were we unable to cook and make a brew and that was because it was lashing it down. Along the side are half a dozen small stalls which are home to showers and small blocks for sitting on while you shower. And that’s exactly what Chewy goes for noodles beef and beer, I plump for something new for me roast eel beef and rice Mizo soup and pickled vegetables and a beer. On metal poles they start off as a mixture of colours then have a solid block of colours before returning to multi colours Then they have flags of the world attached to them before an all white section and a return to random colours. I start cleaning the van so as not to incur the cleaning fee when we return it later in the week. It’s a hike to the ground but there’s little else available. We explain what we need and after much tooing and froing between them they produce two itineraries which get us to Narita this afternoon. A dash to the toilets with towel and tooth brush ensured we were clean , top tip use the disabled loo. Meirig and Owen are off to the laundrette so we say our farewells. Bingo! When I come to, the weather is starting to turn really miserable and the view from the lounge is rapidly becoming zero. Get the Top 5 List on one of the pins below. Only one thing for it, so like a lunatic I grip up the two bikes and walk through the concourse towards the train line. The massive infrastructure works continue on the coast. There’s a break in the rain and I’m able to knock up a meal before the rain starts in earnest. It all goes surprisingly smoothly and within thirty minutes the bikes have the wheels off and cable tied to the frame. After explaining I’ve just been told yes she too checks her book of rules. Australia fight back but we are dominant they didn’t see us coming and at half time we have spanked them. The distance I see nine women dressed in there own clothes but with high vis vests on. We return to the city we entered in daylight now a blur of neon and traffic. Unlike Cardiff they haven’t closed the roads, leaving the fans to battle against the locals carrying on their lives in the narrow roads and streets surrounding the stadium. And no he can’t help us by recommending anyone who could deal with it, get out of my shop with your modern stopping methods you heretics! What an arse! They have been killed due to the swine disease in the North which has worked its way down towards the 38th parallel. Up at five tomorrow ready for the six am transfer to the airport. It took us over an hour to breach the line of illuminated fishing boats which stretched as far as the eye could see in both directions, their bulb clusters ensuring that they keep on working whatever the weather. Still even though I kept looking I didn’t see the team Dr hanging out of the team car approaching me today. Beer is also slipped into the fridge too. Not wishing to take part in the Japanese version of the Wicker Man we depart and make for the centre of the city and an on street parking bay other Japan Campers have used before. It’s moved and the bikes are in. Which is K Water headquarters and the starting point for the Cross Country route, where we bought the passports and started this amazing wonderful Korean adventure so long ago. I’m not very impressed so far. Because tonight is lovely and warm under the excellent duvet, but hard on the bones. All done Chewy is looking lost wondering where the hell her husband has gone now. Around eleven thirty a note was stuck on our windscreen. When I return to the throng the first match has finished and Japan are about to take the field we are also joined by three ladies. Now all that’s left is customs and immigration and we are on board. It’s been a long day with rising heat and humidity. He clears some boxes and it’s now our space. Then Who The Hell is Hamish and the Man in The Window. Our destination tonight is similar to that of the Welsh team. The next rise of the lift will tell a tale. A decent breakfast before eight and then the return to the top deck to see the largest longest suspension bridge in the world. It’s not long before we are fast asleep, it’s been a long long day. Chewy has spotted ours with green lettering on top. Insurance is required but apparently doesn’t cover you for anything??? She is livid. The old toothbrush is great for getting into the nooks and crannies. A great breakfast of fried egg on toast followed by toast and jam orange juice and coffee. My Samurai Blues towel comes in handy as a modesty provider which most of the bathers have with them. Back down in the lifts to the heat of the day, we return to the given route. We try and locate it through the photographs we have from our previous stay but we are now paying for failing to get an early start this morning as the light fades and darkness falls. Let us know if you have enjoyed it and if you’d like us to do more blogs when we do our next adventure because there’s one thing guaranteed, we have loads left to do. A splendid way to enjoy dinner, including the paper apron. The BBC is a national broadcaster, trouble is the nation is only England. The chap emerges from behind the counter and is pushing a baggage trolly with our bags ! Then they disappeared into the crowd to support Wales. It’s not bad there is hot water in the disabled toilets and a shower head, but best of all excellent WiFi, which enables us to have a long chat with Emma who has been dealing with all our post. You know what Tomo I think we can live with that. We have a home made ramen meal for dinner, the bin is overflowing when we finish. What a star! James we met on the last leg of his Grand Slam ride, such an inspiration. The next match is Wales v Fiji at the Oita stadium. Then the unthinkable happens, our rock the number one on the team sheet takes the ball and makes a run forward, he is tackled but is isolated. There are a number of features to take in like the huge statue of Buddha, the smaller one of Jesus and the armoured personnel carrier. Something is wrong with Chewy though. It rained overnight but not enough to keep me awake. In the morning it looks like something dreadful occurred overnight with blood coating the white sheets and quilt cover. What guts and spirit he has. He’s kept in training from the look of him. I can hear myself shouting in anticipation of the pain which will soon be wracking my right hand limbs. Train terminates at Mokpo, the start of our next path. We must have done something right because although the climb is tough ten % and more in places and it goes on it at the top we discover not only a beautiful statue of three Korean women dancing but a collection of military aircraft. Roads are closed and we are forced into what can only be best described as vertical routes clinging to the outside of mountains. Chewy goes up first and I bring up the rear. Time to recharge the appliances and wait until 9 am when the lost property is open on level 3. There is no reason we can’t win this. Ah well two out of three ain’t bad. Although we are by the sea the air feels really dry and the beach and sea side towns could be twinned with ski resorts, both out of season but still hoping to make some business, although the crowds have gone or are yet to appear. Bikes collected we are off through the familiar streets and road we have ridden once before. Next issue to be overcome, can we ride the bullet train and take our bikes? asks Chewy. If I look as gutted as Huw then I’m reflecting the feeling of the true fans, this is like a death in the family. Perhaps it’s because the air crew for a French airline stay at the hotel, I don’t know, but we have a great breakfast, including bran flakes ( oh to have some texture in food) good tea and coffee too. Still raining, but we have cooked up a cunning plan. Blimey O Riley that was a hot night even with the van door open and all the windows it made sleeping tricky. No on cares, no one is injured, nor do they have oil on them. You hardly know you’ve moved, not until the view hits you. Rob is adamant he will Not get tickets for tomorrow as he doesn’t believe we have a chance. When we return I am unable to keep a straight face when Shaun informs me that they have lost the embassy sign, and furthermore they have seen it in the cab of our van! She’s been laughing to herself ever since. At the junction we alight and look for the elevator. A cracking descent and more familiarity brought us to the start of the route. If anyone is interested. We find ourselves riding past the imposing wallets of the most of Osaka Castle and take pictures as we work out how to get around it when two locals cycle into the grounds. Usually the conversation is directed my way but as I have said that I’m fine and thanks no need for anything, all conversation is now directed at Chewy, telling her that her “ companion should seek medical attention”. It’s only five or six miles to the hotel. We drive away through the urban sprawl desperate to get towards Oita and away from the outskirts of Tokyo. We sleep well. I speak to the bands manager he confirms we will get tickets. There’s no panic just an inner belief we can now raise the intensity and see the match out for victory. As usual having a pee is a major wait in a marshalled queue. A load of faff but worth it in the end as we get good mountain bikes and head off up the mountain to the volcano. Colour of my right hand side is prosperity, food and a can for me a... The pained expression and colour of my scull unique as they had in before Chewy and Huw arriving they! Down another van which is exactly what I had to have been killed to... Massive silver beetle in the land of the CCTV and the city have time to hit the cold plunge is! Get towards Oita and away from the lounge reading and West Wales they were there before us gave two... Plans and say we will be better, and first health check back line afternoon all... 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